Firey Yuzu PAO Hot Wings!

These Yuzu PAO Hot Wings will kick your Buffalo Wings’ butt!

I’ve been on a personal quest for the best hot wings recipe in the world for the past several years. If this isn’t it, it’s pretty darn close. After tinkering with the recipe for the past few weeks (a rough job, but somebody has to do it), I think it’s finally just right.

Hot, but not too hot, with a tangy citrus edge and just a hint of sweetness, these wings are guaranteed to be a hit with any crowd. The recipe is easy to scale up for any size gathering, too. (Hmmmm… Superbowl party?)

Red & Green Yuzu PAO

This recipe differs from the usual Buffalo Wings preparation in a couple of major ways.  First, it uses only one tablespoon of Smoked Olive Oil instead of the usual drenching in gobs of melted butter.  Not only is OUR version healthier, it tastes better too.  Sure, sure, butter is great and all that, but the warm, toasty-smoky, olive-rich flavor of smoked olive oil is fantastic!  Second, our hot sauce of choice is the amazing Red Yuzu PAO, instead of the usual Tabasco sauce.  Now, to be clear, I love Tabasco sauce – it’s just that Yuzu PAO is in a whole ‘nother class.

Yuzu PAO Red is a mouth-watering Sriracha style chile sauce.  You’ll notice the similarity in the bottle and that’s no mistake.  The difference is in the ingredients: sun ripened red chile peppers, real yuzu zest and juice (a unique & much-loved Japanese citrus), a little sugar, honey, vinegar & salt.   The flavor can be described as spicy hot, with sweetly fruity, floral notes – and a definite tangy yuzu citrus edge.

Yuzu PAO has been around for a little while now, but it’s been hard to get.  It won many fans when it was first introduced over a year ago,  but manufacturing problems brought production to a screeching halt.  Now that those products have been solved, Yuzu PAO is flowing freely again!

Yuzu PAO comes in both Red & Green varieties and the difference is not just in the color.  Each version has a distinctively different flavor profile – the Red packs the warm, potent heat of sun-ripened red chiles, and the Green, while just as hot, has an herbaceous character reminiscent of a Thai Green Curry.  Like me, I’m sure you’ll find uses for both.

Ingredients:

• 2 lb chicken wings
• 1 Tbsp coriander seeds
• ¼ tsp cumin seeds
• ¼ tsp cinnamon
• ½ Tbsp salt
• 1 Tbsp Santa Fe Smoked Olive Oil
• ¼ cup Red Yuzu Pao
• 1 Tbsp honey
• 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

Preparation:

Remove the tips of the wings with a pair of kitchen shears. Reserve for making stock if desired. Separate the wings at the joint with the shears or a sharp knife.

Toast the coriander, cumin and cinnamon in a dry pan over medium heat until fragrant. Grind the toasted spices finely in a spice or coffee grinder. Combine the spices, salt and smoked olive oil in a non-reactive bowl large enough to fit the wings.  Add the wings and toss gently. Cover and refrigerate for 4-8 hours (or overnight).

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Spread the marinated wings on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 1 – 1 ¼ hours or until the wings are tender and golden brown.

In a small bowl, combine the Red Yuzu Pao and the honey.  Place the cooked wings in a large bowl and toss with the Yuzu Pao/honey mixture and half of the parsley.

Serve hot with the rest of the parsley sprinkled on top.

Serves 2

Calories per serving 480. Calories from fat 340.

Three Pawpaws

Pawpaws are a native North American fruit that is finally receiving some well-deserved attention after languishing in relative obscurity for decades.
Of course, the pawpaw has been here all along, but has been known & treasured by a few devoted fans, largely living in rural areas where the wild pawpaw has always flourished.

This pawpaw, the largest fruit native to the United States, once grew wild throughout much of the Eastern US, especially along the fertile, moist banks of rivers and streams.  Its flavor, which has been compared to a blend of mango, pineapple and ripe banana,  is complex and quite remarkable.  Pawpaws were an important food source for Native Americans, early settlers and pioneers alike.  When supplies ran low in 1806, the Lewis and Clark expedition was sustained by the nourishing pawpaws which grew prolifically along the Missouri River.

As the old frontier of Midwestern America became settled and “civilized,” and their natural habitat slowly eroded, it seems that pawpaws were gradually displaced by other, more familiar European fruits.  Remember Johnny Appleseed?   Fortunately, the humble pawpaw is finally regaining its rightful status as a delicious, nutritious and increasingly available fruit.  A dedicated and rapidly growing group of growers and fans have helped to bring the pawpaw out of the shadows and back into the spotlight.  There are now local pawpaw festivals springing up every fall in communities all over the Central East and especially the Midwest.

Media attention helps too.  A recent feature on NPR has generated a significant amount of interest and has helped spread the word about the tasty fruit that once grew so widely and was so important during America’s early years (read the article and see the video here).

Pawpaw Crème Brûlée with Bourbon Smoked Sugar

Pawpaw Crème brûlée with Bourbon Smoked Sugar

Many experienced cooks seem to be intimidated by the thought of making crème brûlée.  That’s a real pity, because a great crème brûlée is not  really that hard to make.   It’s not that often that we get to have this much fun in the kitchen.  I mean, you get to cook with a blow torch.  Who can’t like that?

It does take a little bit of planning to make a decent custard, but if you assemble all of your equipment in advance and know what to expect, any novice should be able to turn out a decent custard or crème brûlée on the first try.  Every cook has his own favorite recipe and method, and some may disagree, but this basic recipe has always worked for me.

You can vary the ingredients according to your preferences, but I follow a basic ratio of 4 cups liquid to 4 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks.  The liquid component includes the milk, heavy cream, half-and-half and any purees, extracts or booze you plan to use.  I’m not a purist, so I don’t insist on all egg yolk or heavy cream.  You’ll find that you’ll get different results with different combinations of ingredients.  Obviously, the higher the amount of cream and egg yolks, the richer and creamier the flavor, texture and consistency will be, but the calories will be proportionately higher too.

Without further ado, here’s my recipe for Pawpaw Crème Brûlée.

Ingredients:

• 4 whole eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
• 3 cups whole milk
• 1 cup pawpaw puree
• 1/2 cup raw sugar
• pinch of salt
• 7 or 8 Tbsp Bourbon Smoked Sugar (regular raw or white sugar will work too)

Select 4 or 5 fully ripened pawpaws.  Ripe pawpaws will be very dark, almost black and very soft to the touch.  Halve them and scoop out the soft, custardy flesh with a spoon, discarding the skin and seeds (unless you’re saving them to plant later, but that’s another story). Put the pawpaw pulp into a small food processor or blender and puree until smooth.  You should have about 1 cup.

Combine the pawpaw puree with all of the other ingredients and whisk or blend well until all ingredients are completely incorporated.  Set aside for a moment.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Position the rack in the center of the oven.

Prepare a large baking pan with sides that are at least 3 inches high.  Put 7 or 8 custard cups or ramekins in the baking pan and fill them almost to the brim with the pawpaw custard mixture.  If you don’t have custard cups, you can use a single smaller shallow baking dish, filling it about 2 inches deep.

This is the tricky part:  carefully slide the baking pan with the filled custard cups into the preheated oven.  Fill the baking pan with very hot water until it’s about halfway up the sides of the custard cups.  Bake for 40 minutes or until the very center of each custard is still slightly loose and liquidy, but the edges are set.  Very carefully remove the baking pan from the oven, taking care that the water does not slosh over into the custard.  Don’t worry that the custards are underdone – the internal heat of the custard and  the water will cook them the rest of the way.  Remember, no one likes an overcooked, rubber custard.  Well, almost no one.

When the custards have cooled sufficiently to handle, remove them from the baking pan, wipe the bottoms and sides, and set them on a baking rack to cool completely.

Now comes the fun part!  Working one custard at a time, carefully spoon about a tablespoon of sugar on the top surface, spreading it in an even layer all the way out to the edges.  Regular white or raw sugar will work, as will brown sugar which has been laid out on wax paper to dry out, but for this special recipe, I used a very cool Bourbon Smoked Sugar from Bourbon Barrel Foods of Louisville, Kentucky.  This raw sugar is smoked over oak staves from barrels that were used to age bourbon.  The smoky aroma is powerful, but the flavor is surprisingly mellow and delicate.  The smokiness of this incredible sugar added an extra-special touch to the exotic flavor of the pawpaw custard.  Highly recommended!

Melting the smoked sugar with the trusty torch

Now, take your trusty blow torch, either the common garden variety handyman’s propane blowtorch (every chef & cook should have one in the kitchen) or the smaller butane-powered torches that have become common in recent years.  Either one will work, but the small torch is a little easier to handle and control.  Once the torch is lit and burning steadily, carefully play the flame over the sugar, taking care not to linger too long in one place.  The sugar will quickly begin to bubble and melt.  It’s OK if it gets a little dark here and there  - that adds a nice “burnt sugar” flavor, but try to avoid burning or scorching the sugar too much.  You’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly.  It doesn’t matter if you mess up a little.  Remember, in cooking, we can always eat our mistakes!

Once the sugar has been nicely melted, set the custard (now a Crème Brûlée!) aside, and move on to the next one.  Only glaze the number of custards you plan on serving within the next hour or two.  If you make them too far in advance, the crisp sugar-glazed surface will soften and melt.

At last, the moment of truth.  There is nothing quite like breaking through the crackly sugar surface of a crème brûlée and plunging your spoon into the meltingly soft custard that lies beneath.  Enjoy.

Pawpaw Crème Brûlée

Garcia and Cowhorn Chiles

John Garcia of St. Johns Florist & Greenhouse, St. Johns,Michigan, is a friendly guy.

Garcia Chiles "On the Vine"

When we stopped by to pick up some ornamental grasses for our yard in late spring, he was more than happy to spend a few minutes chatting to us.  During the course of our conversation, the topic of hot chile peppers somehow came up.  His eyes lit up when we mentioned that we loved spicy foods.  “Wait a minute,” he said. “I’ve got something for you.”

John, a third generation Mexican-American resident of Michigan, handed us a little 4-pack of small pepper plants.  He didn’t know exactly what kind of chiles they were.  “We just call them ‘Garcia chiles’. My grandfather brought them from his home town in Mexico and our family has been growing them ever since.”

Although it was a little late in the season to be setting out pepper plants, we found room for the chiles in a sunny corner of our small backyard garden.  They were vigorous growers and, within a couple of weeks, had doubled in size.  Soon, each plant was dotted with tiny white blossoms, each a potential chile in the making.

Time passed, and it wasn’t long until our now not-so-little plants were loaded with maturing chile peppers and it was time for a taste test.  Our first sampling of the chiles made one thing amply clear – they were packing some serious heat!  But they were not simply spicy. Their flavor was exceptional, a little like a habanero, but not as searingly hot.  Their taste was complex – sweet & fruity with a clean, citrus-like grassy finish.

By late August, the plants were loaded and we beginning to be overwhelmed by our spicy bounty.  It all came to a head when, in one day, we harvested over a pound of greenish-golden, 2-to-3 inch long peppers.  What to do with this sudden wealth of golden chiles?  The answer: hot sauce!

I wanted to try making something different from a thick, tomato-based salsa in order to let the wonderful flavor of the chiles dominate, perhaps something similar in style and texture to Tabasco sauce.  After a little research and a little experimentation, we arrived at this recipe which allows the full impact of John’s chiles to explode on the palate with every bit of their glorious fruity, floral & sweat-inducing intensity intact.

If you like hot, spicy & flavorful chile sauce, you’ve got to try this recipe out.  If you’re not sure, try it anyway. It just might make a believer of you.

Garcia Chiles

‘Lagrimas del Sol’ Hot Chile Sauce

Proceed with Caution: Chopped Fresh Chiles Ahead!

Use extreme caution when handling fresh chiles.  The interior of a fresh chile, especially the area around the seeds and inner white ‘veins,’ is loaded with capsaicin, the active ingredient which causes the burning sensation of chiles.  Plastic gloves are highly recommended.  Whatever you do, do not touch your eyes, lips, nose or other “sensitive areas” (if you know what I mean) after handling fresh chiles – even if you use gloves.

We used a mixture of the “Garcia chiles,” which we got from our friend, John, and bright red ‘Cowhorn’ chiles, a thick-walled Cayenne-type which is said to be the largest of the hot chiles.  The flavors and colors blended beautifully into a golden orange-yellow sauce which we dubbed “Lagrimas del Sol” (Tears of the Sun).  It’s so good and so hot that it will literally make you cry – but in a good way.

You’ll also notice that we added a carrot and plum to the mix.  Their natural sweetness makes it unnecessary to add sugar or other sweeteners to the sauce and helps to smooth out any rough edges.  Carrots and chiles go together marvelously, and the carrot contributes additional color, body and texture to the sauce.

Use whatever chiles you prefer to achieve the flavor and level of heat that is best for you.  Make a small batch first and feel free to experiment until you come up with the right combination of heat, flavor and consistency.   Above all, have fun.

Ingredients:

Lagrimas del Sol Hot Sauce (Tears of the Sun)

Remove the stems from the chiles (and seeds, if desired) and coarsely chop into 1/2 inch segments. Use caution when handling fresh chiles – gloves are highly recommended.  Peel and dice the onions and carrot into 1/4 inch pieces. Peel and coarsely chop the garlic.  Slice the plum into 1/2 cubes and discard the pit.

Add all ingredients to a large non-reactive pot and bring to a low boil.  Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes.  Remove from the heat and allow to cool briefly.

Place the chile mixture and all the liquid into a blender. A food processor will work in a pinch, but I prefer a blender, since it will virtually liquidity the ingredients.  Blend or process until all solids have been incorporated into a smooth puree.  Using the back of a ladle or spoon, force the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Press the ladle firmly against the strainer and move it vigorously in circular motion until  all of the liquid has been squeezed out. Discard the remaining pulp.

The resulting chile sauce should be smooth and homogeneous, thinner than ketchup, but thicker and denser than Tabasco sauce.

Rustic Wild Mushroom Tart, made with Chanterelle Mushrooms

The deep intense flavor of wild mushrooms is something that cultivated mushrooms just don’t have.

I’m talking about real wild mushrooms, not the kind typically found in grocery stores and on too many restaurant menus.

Wild mushrooms grow in the wild. They grow in forests, on mountainsides, in meadows and in deep brush. They grow whenever and wherever their nature tells them to grow, and their marvelous earthy flavors are a sure sign that they are NOT the safe little farm-raised tasteless buttons you find in cans or in the grocer’s cooler.

While I prefer fresh chanterelles in this recipe, you can use any combination of fresh wild mushrooms.  If you absolutely cannot find or buy wild mushrooms, by all means, use good quality cultivated mushrooms like shiitake, oyster or cremini mushrooms.  Just keep in mind that cultivated mushrooms will not have the intense, earthy aroma of wild mushrooms, so I strongly urge you to consider adding wild mushrooms of some sort to the mix.  Even if you don’t have access to fresh wild mushroom, you can substitute reconstituted dried mushrooms as part of your mushroom blend for some genuine, intense wild mushroom flavor.

While this rustic, free-form tart is wonderful when eaten straight from the oven, its remarkable, mouthwatering flavor actually improves and intensifies after it rests for a day or two.  By then, the entire tart – filling, crust & all – has become infused with the amazing flavor and aroma of the chanterelle mushrooms.  I especially like the way the bechamel sauce helps to gently marry the taste and texture of mushrooms and pastry into one intoxicating union of earthy goodness.

Serve this rustic wild mushroom tart with a salad and a glass of chilled white or rose wine or an ice-cold summer ale for a light summer lunch or dinner.  It’s not only easy to make & serve, it’s a delicious and rewarding meal that is altogether satisfying in every way.

Fresh Chanterelle Mushrooms in Colander

Rustic Wild Mushroom Tart

Hot Sautéed Chanterelle Mushrooms

This mushroom tart is composed of  three components which are prepared separately:  the wild mushroom filling, the Béchamel sauce and the savory dough.  Each can be prepared ahead of time and the tart can be easily assembled just before baking.  If you like, you can double the dough recipe and freeze half for future use.  The dough freezes beautifully for up to six months.

Wild Mushroom Filling

Preparation:

Heat a large skillet over medium high heat & add the olive oil.  Add the mushrooms and onions and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.  Add the thyme leaves and continue to cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated and the bottom of the skillet is dry.  Add salt & pepper to taste, remove from the heat and set aside.

Roll each disc of dough into circles about 10 inches in diameter.  The crust should be about 1/8″ thick.  Place 1/3 of the filling in the middle of each circle.  Leave a border of about 2 inches around the outside of the crust.

Spoon half of the bechamel sauce over the mushrooms.  Top with half of the remaining mushroom mixture and neatly fold the edges of the crust over into loose “pleats.” Lightly brush the pleated edges of the dough with the eggwash and sprinkle each tart with 1 Tbsp coarsely grated cheese and 1 tsp coarse salt.

Place the tarts on a lightly oiled baking sheet.  Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes or until each galette is golden brown. Remove from the oven, allow to cool slightly and garnish with a sprig of fresh thyme before slicing and serving.

Chanterelle Tart Ready for the Oven

Béchamel sauce

Melt the butter over medium low heat in a saucepan.  Whisk in the flour until completely incorporated.  Continue whisking over medium low while the butter & flour mixture bubbles, about 3 minutes.  This is known as a roux (pronounced “roo”).

Heat the milk until hot, but not boiling. Pour the hot milk, a little at a time, into the roux while whisking continually.  The mixture will quickly begin to thicken.  Reduce the heat to low and continue to whisk until the sauce is thickened and smooth.  Mix in the grated cheese (reserving 2 Tbsp for later use), bit by bit, until completely incorporated.  Season with salt & pepper to taste and remove from the heat.

Whisk a little of the hot sauce (a couple of tablespoons) into the beaten egg to temper it.  Then whisk the egg mixture into the sauce and set aside.

Sautéed Chanterelles with Béchamel Sauce on Tart Dough

Savory Tart Dough

In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Place into a food processor with the chilled butter.  Pulse until the butter is evenly distributed but still in pea-sized pieces. Add the ice water all at once to the flour and butter. Pulse again until the dough just comes together into a mass  do not overmix. Using your hands, divide the dough evenly in half and mold into slightly flattened disks. Wrap the disks in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Did you know that the sinus-searing green paste that most people know as “wasabi” is not wasabi at all?  Most commercially sold “wasabi powder” is actually made from dried, powdered horseradish and Chinese mustard artificially tinted with food coloring.

True wasabi is a prized culinary ingredient which, until recently, was found mainly in Japan. The lumpy rhizome, (root-like stem) is grated to produce a light green creamy paste that possesses a fragrant aroma and potently piquant flavor that quickly dissipates leaving a lingering sweet finish, unlike the mind-blowing burn associated with artificial wasabi.

Fortunately for lovers of this pungent rhizome, the North American cultivation of high quality wasabi is now a reality, with an ever-increasing number of wasabi growers on both coasts as well as here in Michigan.

Fresh Wasabi Leaves

Wasabi facts
Wasabi (wasabia japonica) is a semi-aquatic herbaceous perennial, native to the shaded moist banks of the cool mountain streams of Japan’s northern islands. Wasabi is known to have been actively cultivated for at least a thousand years. It’s reasonable to assume that it was used by early man far back into prehistory.

Wasabi is a crucifer, a large family of plants which include mustard, broccoli, cabbage and horseradish.  Wasabi contains powerful antibacterial compounds (which makes it an ideal condiment for raw seafood) and is believed to possess anticarcinogenic and anti-inflammatory properties as well.

The plant itself consists of a tuberous rhizome from which emerge long fibrous stems or petioles, which are topped with large, heart shaped leaves.   In early spring, the wasabi plant blossoms with clusters of delicate white flowers.  All parts of the wasabi plant, rhizomes, petioles, leaves and flowers, are edible and each has an honored role in Japanese culture.

Culinary uses of wasabi
Wasabi has long been a staple condiment in traditional Japanese cuisine.   It’s hard to imagine sushi, sashimi, soba noodles and many other Japanese dishes without the distinctive flavor of wasabi. The leaves are frequently eaten fresh or used as a colorful plate decoration.  Even the stem-like petioles are eaten, sometimes pickled or combined with other ingredients for use as a condiment.

In recent years, wasabi has become a favored ingredient of creative chefs who appreciate its unique qualities and use it in imaginative dishes, experimenting with exciting new preparations that fuse the culinary traditions of both East & West.

Storing Fresh Wasabi Rhizomes
Fresh wasabi rhizomes should be wrapped in moist paper towels and stored in the refrigerator in a covered container. Alternatively, they may also be stored immersed in fresh water in the refrigerator, with the water being changed daily.  When properly stored, fresh wasabi rhizomes have a shelf life of three weeks or more.

Fresh Wasabi Rhizome and Leaf

Preparation of Wasabi

Grating Fresh Wasabi

In order to produce the best flavor, texture and heat, the wasabi rhizome must first be finely ground into paste. The traditional method for grating wasabi is by using a grater made of sharkskin. In the west, a ceramic or metal grater with fine teeth is more commonly used. A ginger grater or box grater will work in a pinch.

The active components of wasabi are released by the action of grating. Once the wasabi is grated, these chemical compounds are mixed and a chemical reaction takes place. The finer the paste, the more potent the wasabi heat becomes.

Grating fresh wasabi
First, rinse the rhizome under cold running water and pat dry.  Holding the rhizome perpendicular to the surface of the grater, grate the rhizome with a circular motion. Grate only as much as you need for immediate use, as the flavor and potency will begin to diminish within 10 – 15 minutes. Mound the grated wasabi together and allow to “bloom” for about 5 – 7 minutes to reach maximum potency.

Click here to see a short video, “Preparing Fresh Wasabi”.

Suggested uses of wasabi
Sure, everyone knows it as the classic condiment with Japanese seafood dishes like sushi and sashimi, but the unique and powerful flavor of wasabi merits bold experimentation.

Like it’s close cousins, horseradish and mustard, wasabi’s refreshing bite makes it a natural accompaniment to Western-style grilled meats.  Last weekend, when we slow-grilled a beef brisket, we whipped up this quick & easy sauce to accompany it in less than 5 minutes.  It was so simple, yet so good that we have to pass it on.

Grilled Beef Brisket with Wasabi-Mustard Cream

Wasabi-Mustard Cream

Ingredients

• 1 Tbsp grated fresh wasabi
• 2 tsp Pommery Original Mustard from Meaux
• 2 cups Greek-style yogurt (substitute sour cream if desired)
• 1/8 tsp raw cane sugar
• generous pinch of salt or to taste

Make sure that you grate the wasabi just before making this sauce.  Wasabi will quickly lose it’s pungent heat if you prepare it too far ahead of time.  The acid in the yogurt will help to stabilize the wasabi a bit, as will the sugar.

The combination of wasabi and strong mustard creates a mouthwatering blend of two distinct kinds of flavor and heat.  The mustard bite hits first, followed and accentuated by the punch of aromatic wasabi which lasts a moment or two before fading to a lingering sweetness.

Preparation:

Finely grate the wasabi and allow to stand for about 5 minutes.  Mix the wasabi with the remaining ingredients and serve immediately.

Fresh wasabi rhizomes, leaves and petioles can be ordered online at earthy.com.

Fiddleheads are one of our favorite wild spring foods.  They look cool, but taste even better.

Blanched Fiddleheads

In case you’re unfamiliar with them, fiddleheads are the tightly coiled emerging shoots of certain edible ferns, the choicest of which are the ostrich fern (matteucia struthiopteris), frequently referred to as the ‘Eastern Fiddlehead.’   While there are a number of other edible ferns, the Eastern fiddlehead is arguably the best tasting and probably the most widely available, growing wild across much of the northeastern US and southeastern Canada.  Much of the commercial harvest in the United States takes place in Maine, Vermont and New Hampshire and in Canada, in the provinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Quebec and Ontario.

If you’re lucky and live in their growing range and know what you’re doing, you can easily forage wild fiddleheads for yourself.  If you don’t, you may be able to find them fresh in produce markets during their brief season (late April – early June), or you can order them online from reputable vendors such as Earthy.com.  When out of season, frozen fiddleheads are a palatable substitute for fresh, but avoid the canned variety which are usually bland, overcooked and insipid.

Basic Preparation of Fiddleheads

Fiddleheads can be prepared in any number of ways.  You can use them much as you would such vegetables as green beans or asparagus, and their flavor has frequently been compared to both.  But make no mistake – their wild green flavor is absolutely unique and highly enjoyable.

Before using them in any recipe, you should first blanch fresh fiddleheads.  Fresh fiddleheads can be high in tannin, a mildly astringent substance that naturally occurs in many plants, including tea and tree bark.  A quick blanching (30 – 60 seconds) in boiling salted water, followed by a plunge into an ice water bath, is all it takes to extract most of the tannins and ready your fiddleheads for use in your favorite dish.

Never eat fresh fiddleheads raw.  While there have been several reported cases of gastrointestinal upset associated with the consumption of raw fiddleheads, the most likely cause was bacterial contamination and not the fiddleheads themselves.  Nevertheless, better safe than sorry.

Over the years, I’ve prepared fiddleheads in many different ways – stir frys, soups, sautes and salads – and have enjoyed them all.  But until now, I’d never tried one of the standard home-style fiddlehead  preparations – pickling.  After a little experimentation, I came up with the following recipe.  While I’ve heard that fiddleheads can be preserved in jars using a standard home-canning process,  I really like the freshness and crunch of these quick and easy to make refrigerator-style pickled fiddleheads.  I’m guessing that you will too.

(Note: For a detailed description of fiddleheads and more ideas for their use, see an earlier blog post, “Fiddling Around with Fresh Fiddleheads”.) 

Fiddleheads Marinating in Pickling Brine

Quick Pickled Fiddleheads

Pickled Fiddleheads

Ingredients:

• 1 lb fiddlehead ferns, rinsed and trimmed
• 1 small shallot, thinly sliced
• 2 cups white wine vinegar (substitute cider or rice wine vinegar)
• 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
• 2 star anise
• 1 tsp Rainbow Peppercorn  blend
• 1 tsp salt
• ¼ tsp crushed chile peppers
• 1 2-inch cinnamon stick
• ¼ cup sugar, Demerara or Turbinado
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 cup water

Preparation:

Rinse the fiddleheads under cold running water and trim the broken ends with a sharp knife.

Heat a large pot of salted water (about 1 Tbsp per quart) to boiling.  Blanch the fiddleheads in the boiling water for about 30 seconds, then drain immediately and plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process.  Drain again thoroughly and place into a large non-reactive heatproof bowl.

Peel and thinly slice the shallot into rings and toss into the bowl with the fiddleheads.

In a large, non-reactive pot, heat the remaining ingredients to boiling, then reduce heat and simmer for about 5 minutes.  Pour the hot vinegar/spice mixture over the fiddleheads.  Allow to stand until cooled to room temperature.  Cover tightly or ladle into jars and refrigerate for up to two weeks.

Chestnut-crusted Walleye with Morels

There is no finer fragrance than the mouthwatering aroma that rises from a sizzling pan full of plump, savory morel mushrooms.  Morels don’t need a lot of fancy preparation to be at their best. Morels, cooked simply in butter, are full of rich, earthy flavor.  They need nothing more than a sprinkle of salt to bring out their remarkable taste.  With morels, less is most definitely more.

Morels and walleye are a natural pairing. The walleye, sometimes known as “walleyed pike,” is a prized gamefish found throughout the Great Lakes and in lakes and rivers in the northern US and much of Canada. The white flesh of the walleye is firm, meaty and delicious.  Like trout and other species of freshwater fish, it seems to go particularly well with mushrooms.

Traditional preparations for walleye frequently rely on batter coating and deep-frying, which mask the delicate flavor and texture of the fish.  How sad!

Instead, the fish is coated with a layer of crushed dried Michigan chestnut chips.  Chestnuts, which contain absolutely no fat, create a light, crisp golden-brown crust and add a wonderfully nutty flavor and tender crunch.

These three ingredients, fish, chestnuts & morels, harmonize together to create an uncomplicated dish with flavors that are simple, yet profoundly satisfying.

Fresh Morel Mushrooms in a Bright Red Colander

Ingredients:

Chestnut Chips

• 1 lb fresh walleye, or other freshwater fish
• 1 Tbsp flour
• 2 oz dried chestnut chips
• 2 Tbsp tea seed oil
• 2 Tbsp butter
• 1/4 lb fresh morel mushrooms (substitute dried morels, if necessary)
• 1 small shallot, peeled & diced
• 1/4 cup dry sherry
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• Salt & pepper to taste

Cut the walleye into pieces, each approximately 4 oz.  Put the chestnut chips into a food processor and pulse briefly until the chips are broken up into 1/8 inch pieces.  Spread them evenly on a large plate.  First, dust the skin side of the fish with flour, then turn it flesh-side down onto the crushed chestnuts.  Press gently. Turn the fish back over and pat any loose bits of chestnut firmly onto the flesh.  Refrigerate for 15 – 20 minutes – the chestnut bits will soften slightly and should adhere securely to the fish.

Meanwhile, split the morels lengthwise and immerse in a bowl filled with cold salted water.  About 2 Tbsp kosher salt per quart of water should do the trick.  Normally, it’s not necessarily recommended to soak or wash fresh mushrooms, but any experienced morel hunter will tell you that it’s something of a necessity with morels.

The idea is to 1.) loosen any dirt or debris from the honeycomb structure of the morel and 2.) flush out any unwanted buggy hitchhikers (they don’t like salt).  Gritty morels are just no fun.  The bugs I don’t mind so much.

Soaking Morels in Cold Salted Water

Soak the morels for about 15 – 20 minutes, lightly agitating the mushrooms in the water from time to time.  Drain the morels in a colander and gently flush them with cool, running water to remove any residual debris.  You’ll probably see a trace of dirt and grit in the bottom of the sink.  Once the morels have been thoroughly rinsed, place them on a towel to drain completely.

Walleye with Chestnut Coating

Heat 1 Tbsp of butter in a large skillet over medium high heat.  Add the shallots and cook them, stirring frequently, until they begin to soften slightly, about two minutes.  Now add the morels and cook for another 5 minutes.  Reduce the heat to medium, and stir in a generous pinch of flour (about 1/8 tsp).

Add the dry sherry and continue to cook until the sherry is reduced by 2/3.  Stir in the soy sauce and reduce the heat to medium low.  Swirl in the remaining tablespoon of butter until the sauce bubbles and thickens.  Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper, then remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat the tea seed oil over medium high heat in a large saute pan, big enough to accommodate all the fish pieces without crowding.  If you don’t have tea seed oil, use another good quality cooking oil.  Personally, I prefer to use tea seed oil because of the high smoke point.  It’s nearly impossible to make it smoke (believe me, I’ve tried) and cooking at high heat really helps to get a nice golden brown crust and crisp skin on the fish without overcooking it.

Once the oil is good and hot, place each piece of fish flesh side down in the pan.  Reduce the heat slightly and cook for about 2 minutes or until the chestnut coating is a rich golden brown.  Carefully turn the fish, and cook for an additional 2 – 4 minutes or until the skin is crisped and the flesh is just cooked through, but still moist.

Remove each piece of fish to a warm plate and top with a generous spoonful of the morel sauce.  Be prepared to serve seconds.

Morels and Shallots

One-eyed Bouillabaisse

A few weeks ago, while flipping through a stack of food magazines in the Earthy Delights break room, I stumbled across an unusual recipe for “One-eyed Bouillabaisse”.

While I’d heard of this dish before, I’d never made it. So when our annual cargo container shipment of Italian specialties arrived, including some amazing Italian plum tomatoes, I knew it was time.

Victoria Tomatoes

A few weeks ago, while flipping through a stack of food magazines in the Earthy Delights break room, I stumbled across an unusual recipe for “One-eyed Bouillabaisse”.While I’d heard of this dish before, I’d never made it. So when our annual cargo container shipment of Italian specialties arrived, including some amazing Italian plum tomatoes, I knew it was time.

However, now that I was ready to cook, I couldn’t find the recipe or the magazine.  I had skimmed the recipe and accompanying text and was immediately intrigued by this rustic version of bouillabaisse which is made entirely without seafood.  Instead, each portion is served with a single egg, poached right in the soup.  It really does look like a big golden eye.

Working only with my somewhat incomplete recollection of the recipe and the contents of our pantry, I had but one choice: wing it.

I’m pretty certain that Provencal country folk improvised when necessary rather than rushing to the supermarket if they happened to be out of one or two ingredients. After all, good cooks are able to work with what they have on hand and don’t necessarily strictly rely on recipes.  In that spirit of adventure, I set out to create a creditable rendition of a French country classic.

The resulting recreation may differ from some versions, but I believe it to be true to the spirit of the original dish. The rich, authentic flavor is wonderfully delicious and intensely satisfying.

While I believe in using what you have on hand, several ingredients are important to the flavor and consistency of the soup.

The tomatoes. Go with Italian tomatoes. They simply are better. Earthy Delights sells “Victoria” brand peeled plum tomatoes and they are exceptional. I’ve yet to find better canned tomatoes than these. Packed in nice, thick tomato juice, with no added salt, they actually taste like ripe tomatoes.

Fennel Pollen

The spices. Splurge a little and get some real, honest to goodness saffron. Nothing else comes close. Period.

If you can get it, use fennel pollen. It’s a little more expensive (and harder to find) than fennel seed, but it’s worth it.  If you can’t get fennel pollen, you can substitute a few crushed fennel seeds, but use them sparingly – too much can easily overwhelm subtle flavors. Alternatively, try substituting some sliced fresh fennel for part of the celery.

The potatoes. Potatoes add some backbone to this sturdy country soup. Use some decent waxy potatoes instead of floury, bland russets. Yukon Gold or Klondike Rose potatoes are widely available these days, but little fingerlings are even better. They add real potato flavor and texture and hold up well in soups.

The eggs. Use really good, really fresh eggs. Mass produced eggs are flavorless, watery and the yolks break easily. Look for eggs with richly colored, plump yolks and firm whites. They may cost more, but they taste better – and they’re better for you.

You don’t have to buy the most expensive ingredients.
Just buy the best you can afford.

Saffron Threads

Ingredients:

• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• 1 medium onion
• 4 stalks celery
• 1 lb waxy potatoes (I used Klondike Rose)
• 2 14-oz cans Italian peeled plum tomatoes in juice
• a generous pinch of saffron (about 1/8 tsp)
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup water or vegetable stock
• 1 tsp fennel pollen
• 4 large eggs

Sliced Klondike Rose Potatoes

Peel the onion and dice into 1/4 inch pieces. Wash & trim the celery stalks and slice on the diagonal. Halve the potatoes lengthwise if using larger potatoes or leave whole if using smaller fingerlings. Slice the potatoes about 1/8 inch thick.

Heat the olive oil in a large, non-reactive pot over medium heat. Add the onion and celery, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 – 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the vegetables begin to soften and become translucent, add the tomatoes, water or stock, saffron, bay leaves, salt and pepper and raise the heat to medium.

When the mixture begins to simmer, add the potatoes and stir gently.  The liquid should just cover the potatoes.  Add a little more water or stock if necessary. Return to a gentle boil, then lower the heat and cover the pot. Cook for about 30 minutes on a low simmer or until the potatoes are barely fork tender.  Stir in the fennel pollen.  Adjust salt and pepper to taste.

Use a ladle to create hollows or pools among the vegetables.  Crack an egg into each of the hollows you’ve just made.  Cover the pot and poach the eggs for 3 -5 minutes, or until the whites are set and the yolk is still soft.

Gently lift each poached egg from the soup and place it in the center of a warm bowl.  Carefully ladle soup around the egg.  Serve with hot toasted baguette rubbed with a cut clove of raw garlic.

Victoria Tomatoes and Vegetables

]]> http://earthydelightsblog.com/?feed=rss2&p=1869 0 http://earthydelightsblog.com/?p=1743&utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=soft-scrambled-eggs-with-ramps-and-smoked-salmon http://earthydelightsblog.com/?p=1743#comments Fri, 15 Apr 2011 01:18:13 +0000 earthydelights http://www.earthydelightsblog.com/earthyblog/?p=1743 [...]]]>  

Soft Scrambled Eggs with Ramps

Scrambled eggs & ramps are a traditional country favorite.
Pick up any cookbook on old-fashioned Appalachian cooking and you’ll find recipes for ramps with eggs, ramps with taters, ramps with bacon… the list goes on and on. While these down home, country-style dishes will never go out of style, you might want to try this recipe which takes ramps and scrambled eggs to a completely different level.

Four Brown Eggs

This method of preparing scrambled eggs is often referred to as “French Soft Scrambled Eggs.” I don’t know if the French were really the first to invent the soft scrambled egg (more likely the Italians or Chinese), but who cares: whoever was first was definitely on to something good.

When done correctly in a double boiler, soft scrambled eggs closely resemble a stirred custard. Light and delicate in texture, but full of savory, eggy flavor, soft scrambled eggs are simply delightful.

Their gentle, comforting flavor is the perfect counterpoint to the rich, slightly salty smoked salmon and the wild, herbaceous tang of pungent, garlicky ramps. The first bite is guaranteed to be amazing. So is each bite that follows.

Hint: It’s essential to use a double boiler when preparing this dish. If you don’t have a double boiler, you can use a medium or large stainless steel mixing bowl set atop a saucepan with an inch or two water in it.

Ingredients:

• 4 whole eggs
• 8 – 10 ramps/wild leeks
• 2 oz smoked salmon, diced
• 1/4 cup milk or heavy cream
• 2 Tbsp butter, sliced into small pieces
• 2 Tbsp steelhead or salmon caviar (optional, but highly recommended)

Preparation:

Set up a double boiler, making sure that the water does not touch the bottom of the top pan.

Clean the ramps by slicing away the tough, woody “button” and the roots. Pull away the soft pulpy outer capsule from the bottom of the ramp and discard. Rinse the ramp well to remove any dirt or debris. Thinly slice the entire ramp, reserving a few of the sliced greens for garnishing. (For more information on ramps, see this earlier post.)

Fresh Ramps and Roots

Beat the eggs in a large bowl with a whisk until light and frothy and set aside. Heat the milk or cream in the double boiler until very hot.   Slowly whisk the hot milk or cream into the beaten eggs little by little to “temper” them, then reduce the burner to low and return the tempered egg/milk mixture to the top of the double boiler. Make sure the heat is quite low and the water is barely simmering.

Stir, stir, stir the egg mixture with a heat-proof spatula, all around the sides and bottom, making sure that “curds” do not form. Continue stirring all the while as the egg mixture slowly begins to thicken.

Frothy Beaten Eggs

Add the sliced ramps to the double boiler and continue stirring. Adding the ramps at this stage will cool the cooking eggs slightly, slowing down the cooking process a little. Continue to cook and stir for another minute or two, then add the diced smoked salmon.  Cook and stir a bit longer, but be patient – you’re almost done.  When the eggs begin to become thick and custardy in texture, it’s time to turn off the burner; the eggs will continue to cook under their own heat for another minute or two. Gently fold in the butter, bit by bit, until it has been completely incorporated and the scrambled eggs are rich and glossy.

Divide the scrambled eggs into warmed serving dishes. Spoon a tablespoon of steelhead or salmon caviar over each portion, if using. Sprinkle with the reserved sliced ramp greens and serve with hot buttered toast or bagels.

Creamy Soft Scrambled Eggs with Ramps and Smoked Salmon

Turnip KimcMention Korean cuisine and most people immediately think of one dish: kimchi.

Mention Korean cuisine and almost everyone will think of one dish: kimchi.

Yes, Kimchi is probably Korea’s best known food, and for good reason: kimchi is a part of almost every Korean meal. Despite a reputation for being spicy (and a little, shall we say, “aromatic”), it’s very easy to develop a taste for it.  Once you’ve gotten hooked, it’s hard to do without.

Kimchi (also frequently spelled “kim chee,” is a traditional fermented Korean dish, typically made of vegetables such as cabbage, daikon, green onion or cucumber. If the thought of eating fermented food makes you uneasy, don’t worry. Fermenting foods has been a traditional method of food preservation in almost every culture for a very, very long time. Think of kimchi as the Korean version of sauerkraut or old-fashioned crock pickles.

While Kimchi is known to have existed for at least 3,000 years, this side dish of fermented vegetables continues to be an essential part of contemporary Korean cuisine. Early kimchi dishes were much simpler, consisting mainly of cabbage and stock. Red chili pepper, now the main ingredient used to add flavor and heat to most varieties of kimchi, was added some time after 1500 when it was first introduced from the Americas via Japan.

These days, more than two hundred varieties of historic and modern kimchi have been documented. All types of kimchi boast a wealth of vitamins, minerals, and proteins created by the fermentation of cabbage, other vegetables, spices and seafood.

Before the invention of mechanical refrigeration, different types of kimchi were made seasonally throughout the year, based on which vegetables were in season and to take advantage of hot or cool weather. Even today with modern conveniences, most Koreans still prefer to follow tradition when it comes to seasonal preferences for kimchi.

Traditionally, the greatest variety of kimchi were made for consumption during the long, cold winter months. In late autumn, many types of kimchi were prepared for underground storage in large earthenware pots. This storage method is likely the source of Westerner’s belief that  kimchi is buried in the ground for six months.

Kimchi is widely considered to be a very healthful food, as it is primarily made from vegetables, is high in fiber and low in calories. According to some sources, one serving also provides up to 80% of the daily recommended amount of vitamin C and carotene. In addition, most types of kimchi contain onions, garlic, and peppers, all of which contain natural compounds that are believed to promote good health. Kimchi is rich in vitamin A, thiamine (B1), riboflavin (B2), calcium, and iron and contains a number of bacteria that are beneficial to healthy digestion.

Turnips, Three Chilis and Green Onions

Turnip Kimchi

Kimchi ingredients, mixed & ready to go

Ingredients:

• 3 lb turnips
• 1 Tbsp coarse salt
• 1 Tbsp sugar
• 5 Tbsp Korean chili powder
• 1 tsp crushed chili flakes (or to taste)
• 1/2 oz chili threads (optional)
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed & coarsely chopped
• 6 spring onions, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp fish sauce
• 1 Tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

Preparation:

Peel the turnips and cut into 3/4 inch cubes. Place in a bowl and toss with the coarse salt until well-coated.  Allow to stand for about 30 minutes. Transfer to a non-reactive colander and drain well.

Let the fermentation begin!

Combine all remaining ingredients with the salted & drained turnip cubes and mix gently, but thoroughly. Place the kimchi mixture into a large, clean jar and gently push down with the handle of a wooden spoon. Cover tightly and allow to stand at room temperature for at least 2 days.  Refrigerate for about 2 weeks to allow the kimchi to continue to ferment slowly. While you can eat most varieties of kimchi immediately, turnip kimchi is at it’s best if allowed to ferment fully before eating.   Remember, the longer it ages, the more tangy and sour it will become.

Hint: Good fermentation is the key to successful kimchi.  You can jumpstart a strong fermentation by adding a little whey, the clear liquid that forms on the surface of yogurt.  Make sure it’s a “live culture” (or homemade) yogurt – the whey will be chock-full of lactobacillus, the beneficial bacteria that is responsible for the fermentation of milk into yogurt.  This same bacteria will promote a vigorous fermentation in your kimchi!