Chanterelle Confit

Confit: Anyone who has the vaguest interest in food and cooking has probably heard this word used (and misused) more than a few times.

Many people, even experienced cooks, may be a little hazy about the meaning of the term.  Is it a dish or a cooking method?  Is it French or, heaven forbid, “fancy?”  Does it make you feel uncomfortable and ignorant when your food snob friends use it casually in conversation?

Let’s see if we can clear up some of the confusion surrounding this key, but often misused, term which plays an important role in both classic and modern cookery.  As Julie Andrews sang in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.”

The origin of the word “confit” is indeed French, coming from the French verb confire, which literally means “to prepare or preserve.”  In cooking terminology, the usage of the term has evolved with the times, but at the most basic level, it remains an age-old method of preserving food, particularly by cooking it in fat.  In the days before refrigeration, many foods, especially fatty meats like duck and pork, were preserved by simmering them in rendered fat.  The cooked meats were then packed into clean jars or pots and were sealed by pouring a thick layer of the liquid fat over the top.  After the fat cooled and solidified, the cooked meats were protected from harmful bacteria which could cause spoilage – not unlike the canning processes which we use today.

A great number of the classic dishes of European cuisine, including the famous duck confit, pork rillettes and many others, are still made using this ancient technique today.  However, the goal now is not preservation, but the rich, yet delicate flavors that this time-honored technique produces.

Confit, however, can also refer to a condiment or preserve of foods other than meats, including fruits or vegetables – or mushrooms.

These days, it’s not uncommon to see restaurant menus dotted with ingredients such as “Meyer lemon confit,” “red onion confit,” “tomato confit,” or “garlic confit.”  These condiment-like confits are intended to offer an intensely flavorful balance of sweet, sour and savory elements that complement & enhance the main dish.

The chanterelle mushroom, the “Queen of the Forest,” whose delicate, fruity, yet spicy flavor is so-well suited to many dishes, seemed to be an ideal candidate for the confit method.  With some experimentation, the following recipe slowly evolved.  It’s wonderful on its own as a spread for crusty rustic breads, as an ingredient in sauces, as a filling for stuffed pork chops and chicken breasts, turnovers and ravioli.

Without further ado, here is our basic recipe for Chanterelle Confit, an amazingly delicious savory mushroom condiment.

Chanterelle Confit

• 1/2 pound fresh chanterelles or other wild mushrooms
• 1 large onion
• 4 cloves garlic
• 2 oz dried apricots
• 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 cup dry sherry
• 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
• 1 Tbsp raw sugar (substitute light brown sugar)
• pinch crushed red chili pepper (optional)
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper

Brush any dirt or grit from the chanterelles. If any dirt is difficult to remove, give them a quick rinse under cool running water and pat dry. Roughly chop the mushrooms into 1/4 – 1/2 inch pieces.

Peel and dice the onion. Peel and mince the garlic cloves. Coarsely chop the dried apricots. (Hint: brush or spray cooking oil on the blade of your knife to help keep the dried apricots from sticking.)

Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan over medium-low heat. Add the chanterelles, onions & garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for about 15 minutes or until the onion becomes translucent and the mushrooms have begun to soften. Add the diced apricots, sugar, salt, pepper and crushed chili (if using), then add the dry sherry and chicken stock.

As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to a low simmer. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all of the liquid has reduced and the resulting mixture is thick and jammy, about 40 – 60 minutes. Adjust salt & pepper to taste, remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Put the confit into a glass jar and pour a tablespoon or two of olive oil over the top. Store in the refrigerator for up to a month. Freeze to store the confit for up to 6 months.

Wonderful with grilled meats, chicken or fish, on omelets or savory crepes.

Many of the ingredients used in this recipe, and other recipes on the Earthy Delights Blog, can be purchased online at our retail website, Earthy.com. We welcome you to visit the Earthy.com website to view our extensive selection of wild, specialty and hard-to-find ingredients.

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